PARIS (AP) — With just over a month to go before the Paris Olympic Games, Louis Vuitton celebrated the beauty of humans and their skin in a star-studded menswear showcase at the headquarters of the United Nations cultural agency, UNESCO, in Paris. Models wearing clothes every shade of human flesh paraded around a giant globe on grass adorned with Vuitton’s iconic Damier pattern, creating a visual symphony of diversity.
Here are some highlights from the spring 2025 shows:
The human of Vuitton
“It was a tribute to the human being,” the menswear designer said. Pharrell Williams, which name-checked the Summer Olympics, for a spectacle that felt like a journey across continents with the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and a giant seashell globe. “It went from black to dark brown, then brown, light brown, beige, a little gray…and finally white,” the singer-turned-fashion designer said of the spring presentation.
The spectacular collection highlighted checks in shades of green, blue and black, taking inspiration from the design of Air Afrique’s luggage. The airline, which operated for decades starting in the 1960s, became a symbol of diasporic creativity, according to Vuitton. With contributions from creatives like Lamine Diaoune and Djiby Kebe, Williams infused the collection with a sense of global unity.
Inspired by the cultural headquarters of the UN populated by ambassadors, Williams explored various archetypes. The Diplomat was presented in deep, rich tones of 1970s-inspired tailoring. The Explorer appeared in rugged yet stylish outerwear, including utility jackets and vests. The dandy, another essential figure, paraded down the grass check Damier catwalk in jackets and coats adorned with rhinestones and bead embroidery.
Set against a dramatic sky, with changing clouds and fluttering world flags, the color progression of the collection reflects the diversity of designs, moving from darker to lighter tones in multicultural harmony. This theme extended to the clothing, which included pixelated python skin patterns and world maps centered on Africa. A reinterpretation of the Damier pattern featured pale brown tiles with multi-colored accents. Leather soccer ball designs pay homage to the world’s favorite sport.
The show, polished and marketable, mixed complexity and apparent simplicity – amid the wealth of the diaspora.
Enamel cards were integrated into the buttons and the LV logo appeared subtly in relief on the materials. Intricate details like black-on-black embroidery and crystal and bead accents add layers of sophistication. Elsewhere, vintage-inspired styles in soft leather featured oversized monogram motifs and distressed leather trims.
Once again, the famous designer made the show a spectacle rather than a showcase for the clothes. This seems to be the zeitgeist. Among the stars clapping were Alicia Vikander and Michael Fassbender.
Speaking about the tumult of today’s world and the prevalence of world flags around the UN building representing certain nations at odds or worse, Pharrell said he “would never dare think that (this spectacle) could be a reason for people to come together. But presenting this notion (of peace) and presenting this possibility in a poetic way is the only thing we can do.
Kenzo’s jungle
Coarse, golden sand around a foaming fountain in the historic courtyards of Paris’ Palais Royal – a stone’s throw from the brand’s founding boutique – set the stage for Nigo’s latest mixed-gender show for Kenzo. As the sun set, what better place for its final display? A little over two years later its historic moment As the house’s first Japanese designer since its late founder Kenzo Takada, Nigo returned to the brand’s roots with a vibrant and culturally rich collection.
Inspired by Kenzo’s love of Henri Rousseau’s jungle paintings, Nigo used these designs as prints on several looks, including loose suit jackets and pants. The result? A harmonious fusion of Eastern and Western influences that has become a signature.
Fashion insiders were delighted when a soft toy – a stuffed tiger – appeared perched on a model’s shoulder. This kitsch moment of dubious genius saw Nigo cleverly reinterpreting Rousseau’s masterpiece, which depicted the wild beast.
Urban vests adorned with colorful insect-like flowers, neon urban balaclavas, metallic mesh bags and a sheath depicting an Asian garden scene around the Eiffel Tower highlighted the innovative use of fabrics, textures and Nigo’s ironic humor. Creations elsewhere have merged streetwear with luxury fashion, but an aesthetic question persists: there’s a lot of funk with Nigo, but is there enough finesse?
There are more important questions. As the luxury industry continues to grapple with issues of racism and diversity, Louis Vuitton menswear designer Pharrell Williams has emerged as one of the few front-row guests to give Nigo a standing ovation. It was a poignant moment.
Saunders’ theatrical melting pot
Bianca Saunders’ models took to the runway Wednesday for a spring collection that was inspired by the bohemian comedian — all on an old-fashioned brick catwalk.
This latest collection from the British-Jamaican designer, known for her digital-first approach and inclusive designs, features her signature blend of minimalism and cultural references.
Soft leather pantomime-style boots and tennis-style shoes fused with unexpected, random touches and flashes of vibrant blue created a melting pot feel. It was as if a theater casting director had opened a box of fancy disguises. These elements highlighted Saunders’ ability to blend tradition and modernity, a theme she constantly explores.
A blue mesh jumpsuit and cap added an urban touch while playing on the theatricality present throughout the collection. Likewise, a satin blue scarf T-shirt shimmered beautifully with its generous proportions, highlighting Saunders’ talent for innovative use of textures and fabrics.
The mesh pom-pom hats were a perfect archetype of spring fare – part East London mesh shopping bag, part old master artist. This clever use of materials and accessories speaks to Saunders’ commitment to sustainability, often using deadstock from platforms like Nona Source and materials from Positive Materials and Isko.
At times, Saunders seemed to align with fashion brand Loewe’s newer aesthetic, but she maintained her distinct identity through her cultural references and innovative approach to menswear.
Mystical meets modern at Undercover
Golden crowns of thorns, sandals, and loose tunic-like jackets added a mystical quality to Undercover’s spring. Designer Jun Takahashi has masterfully blended high fashion and streetwear. The show, a spectacle of contrasts, feels both ancient and modern, drawing on the creator’s talent for hybridization.
Loose silhouettes, distressed and deconstructed, took to the runway, effortlessly combining the avant-garde and the wearable. Although layered and busy, the sets maintained a visual coherence that showcased Takahashi’s meticulous approach to construction. Her ability to imaginatively mix familiar wardrobe staples was on full display, from raw cotton and linen to striking prints.
Veils and lace embellishments around the neck added an ethereal touch, evoking a sense of spiritual journey, while historic trains on some garments straddled the line between urban and Renaissance. The hoodies of the tracksuits, reminiscent of Mary Magdalene, but imbued with hip-hop mystique, showcased the designer’s ability to draw inspiration from various cultural symbols.
A printed pleated skirt celebrated a passion for non-binary, further highlighting Takahashi’s commitment to inclusivity in fashion.