- Author, James FitzGerald
- Role, Reporting from Paris
As the Olympics approach, some Parisians have been outraged. Security and overcrowding concerns have been at the forefront of Parisian concerns in the preceding weeks, which have also been marked by an extremely turbulent period politically.
The situation was made worse by a wave of coordinated arson attacks on France’s rail network on Friday, which ruined the travel plans of hundreds of thousands of people.
But a vibrant opening ceremony and an early wave of French medals began to make many city residents optimistic.
And as the rain clouds clear, some locals say the sport is starting to bring some much-needed cohesion to France.
The day after France won its first gold medal of the Games, the sun was finally shining on a fan zone in the city’s 13th arrondissement, where couples and families lounged in deckchairs in front of a big screen.
A man named Max was jubilant after France won the men’s rugby sevens. “I was very proud,” he said. “But I’ve always been excited about the Olympics, even if some people aren’t.”
The tone for this sporting extravaganza has perhaps been set so far by Friday’s ambitious opening ceremony, which seemed to surprise many locals with how well it went.
Director Thomas Jolly seems to have anticipated the possibility of something going wrong, as one of the pre-filmed inserts shows torchbearer Zinedine Zidane in a broken-down subway car.
“I’m pretty sure everyone who saw the ceremony changed their mind,” said Pierre, a cyclist who had been annoyed beforehand by the large security presence.
“I wasn’t very optimistic about the Olympics. I have to say I was a bit grumpy,” said Vincent, a rugby fan. “But now I find the atmosphere very cool.”
Spirits did not dim despite the torrential rains that characterized the ceremony throughout the weekend. Cheers and spontaneous renditions of the French national anthem La Marseillaise erupted among the crowds that lined the streets to watch the cyclists brave the treacherous conditions in the time trial competitions.
Curious residents perched on upper-floor windowsills or balanced precariously on street furniture to get a good view. Police officers couldn’t resist snapping photos. Even bicycle delivery drivers, visibly perplexed by the many road closures, stopped to take in the action.
For ice cream vendor Ludwig, who had set up his stand on Boulevard Saint-Germain as competitors sped past, sales were faltering because of the rainy weather, but all that mattered was the “great atmosphere” the global sporting competition had brought.
The French athletes had a string of sporting successes and it seemed that the feeling of well-being would last beyond the opening ceremony. Pedestrians poked their heads into bars to watch television screens and applaud the first medals.
The Games were an “incredible” display of French culture and solidarity, said two judo fans who dressed up as beloved comic book characters Asterix and Obelix.
Speaking outside the Champ de Mars arena, Thomas-Felix and Sebastien said it was disappointing that French competitor Luka Mkheidze was beaten in the final of the men’s 60kg contest, but at least they were surrounded by many compatriots and could “all cry together”.
Some Parisians are happy to see something other than politics on the front pages of newspapers. For Caroline Loire, organizer of the street theater during the Games, the sport represents “a break.”
A few weeks ago, a hastily formed left-wing coalition triumphed in the second round of early legislative elections, after the far-right National Rally took the lead in the polls in the first round. France is now in the hands of a caretaker government, whose future is uncertain.
“Macron wants us to forget politics, but we won’t,” said Adrienne, an arts student who was excited to watch Olympic table tennis. “We’ll appreciate the athletes, but we won’t forget.”
Another man, Alexandre, doubts the Games will have a long-term galvanizing impact, but believes it is a good opportunity for France to “show what it can do.” That is important, he said, in light of Friday’s attack on the railways. “It’s a heavy situation,” he said.
Although the Games manage to distract many people for a while, enthusiasm is far from universal.
“I’m not very enthusiastic. I don’t think Paris is the right place for this,” said one student, Melissa, who suggested another city would have been better equipped to handle the crowds.
There are fears that Paris’s infrastructure is collapsing under the strain of so many visitors, but some of the more central streets and even its metro stations seem eerily quiet – perhaps due to the fact that many locals have abandoned the city for the summer.
On Saturday, a few barriers remained on Île Saint-Louis, an island in the Seine that was cordoned off for the opening ceremony. Attendance seemed relatively low.
Some restaurant owners said it remained to be seen whether the influx of Olympic tourists would offset the drop in attendance. The Games are good news for France, but “not good for business,” said one restaurant owner, gesturing to a row of empty tables.
Further south, spectators and Games delegates began to seek out the bars and cafes of the Latin Quarter – although a Greek establishment called Olympia was conspicuously closed.
“I don’t care that the Olympics are in Paris,” said Jean-Louis, a bistro owner jostling to attract passing customers.
“It’s just an image of France, but it’s not the reality,” he said of the Games. He added that poverty was a bigger problem for millions of people. After all, he added, “the Olympics don’t give me anything to eat.”